Article

The short answer

A damp-proof course only works if water cannot go around it. Soil, a patio or path that sits too high, or mortar left across the course, can let ground water and splashed rain into the wall above it. RICS says a path should sit two bricks (150mm) below the damp-proof course. Lower the ground or clear the bridge first. A dehumidifier does not fix a wall that is being fed from outside.

What you are seeing

A damp patch low on an outside wall, often with a tide-mark, peeling paint or crumbling plaster near the skirting. It tends to sit behind a patio, path, flower bed or decking, and it may look much the same in dry and wet weather. Condensation behaves differently: it shows on cold surfaces and is worst on still, cold mornings.

RICS describes a bridged damp-proof course as one where the barrier itself has not failed and does not need replacing; something is simply letting water move around and over it. Its guide also says "rising damp" is a term that is often misused and misdiagnosed, and that failure of an original damp-proof course is extremely rare.

Rule these out first, cheapest first

Do the outside checks in a dry spell, then look again in rain.

  1. Step 1, free: look at the ground against the damp patch. Find the damp-proof course line if you can see it in the brickwork; if you cannot, a surveyor can locate it. Is soil, gravel, paving or decking sitting up to or above it? RICS says a path should be two bricks (150mm) below it.
  2. Step 2, free: check for mortar and rubble. RICS gives mortar bridging over the damp-proof course as a cause. Look for old mortar droppings, render or a raised flower bed built up against the wall.
  3. Step 3, free: watch where rain lands. RICS also notes rain splashing off a hard path back onto the wall above the damp-proof course. Check any gutter or downpipe above the patch for leaks too.
  4. Step 4, free: check the air vents. If the house has a suspended timber floor, low air vents let air move under it. RICS says blocked vents stop air flow under the floor, which can lead to damp floor timbers and humid air in the void. Clear anything covering them.
  5. Step 5, low cost to trades: lower or remove the bridge. RICS lists removing the mortar bridging, repairing leaking guttering and lowering the path if possible. Digging out soil or re-laying a patio is a job for a builder, so get the level checked first.
  6. Step 6, wait, then consider the air. A wall that has been wet takes time to dry once the source is cut off. Only if damp air remains in the home afterwards is it worth looking at humidity control.

The Ashford factor

Ashford has a wide mix of housing ages, from older brick terraces to newer estates, and gardens, patios and paths get added and re-laid over the years. That makes the ground level against the wall worth checking on any home before you assume the wall or the damp-proof course has failed. Check what your own property has, rather than assuming.

When a dehumidifier is not the answer

If the ground is bridging the damp-proof course, water is being fed into the wall from outside. A dehumidifier lowers moisture in the air; it cannot stop that supply, and it will not dry a wall that keeps being rewetted. If you rent, report the problem to your landlord in writing and do not dig or re-lay anything yourself. If you are unsure whether it is bridging, rising damp or something else, ask for an independent surveyor; RICS suggests being wary of anyone relying only on a damp meter.

Where Dryzen fits

A Dryzen system is a loft-mounted dehumidifier with insulated ductwork to the central area or stairway of the home. Each unit is rated for 150 square metres and has an extraction rate of 12 litres a day, and it uses about 20 pounds a year in energy. It suits owner-occupied homes with a loft. It is not suitable for rental properties unless the landlord authorises the changes. Once the outside ground and any leaks are sorted, a survey can tell you whether any remaining dampness is condensation that a system could help with.

Quick questions

What does a bridged damp-proof course mean?

It means something has crossed the damp-proof course and let water bypass it, such as mortar on the wall, or soil and paving piled up against it. The course itself has not necessarily failed.

How far below the damp-proof course should a path be?

RICS says a path should be two bricks (150mm) below the damp-proof course.

Can I put a patio up against my wall?

Only if the finished surface stays well below the damp-proof course and any air bricks, and rain cannot splash back onto the wall above it. If you are unsure, ask a surveyor before paving.

Sources: RICS: Bridged damp-proof course (DPC) and raised ground; RICS: Blocked ventilation; RICS: Damp and mould consumer guide

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Last reviewed 2026-10-16. General guidance only; this is not a survey of your home.

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